2014 Philippe Pacalet Charmes-Chambertin (750ml)15 4 0 0
90-93 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
Here the more expressive nose combines both upper and lower register aromas of airy and cool red currant and floral aromas with those of earth, humus and sauvage hints. The mouth feel is distinctly different than what is typically found with Mazoyères because rather than being big, bold and powerful it's almost delicate with a caressing aspect to the precise, concentrated and focused middle weight flavors that possess excellent length on the balanced finish. This is really a lovely effort though I wouldn't exactly describe it as typical.
The iconoclastic Philippe Pacalet, who is the nephew of the late Marcel Lapierre and who was for years the régisseur (estate manager) for Henri Roch of Domaine Prieuré-Roch, started his own négociant operation in 2001. He has moved operations from Gevrey to Nuits and now to Beaune and has installed himself in the old de Montille cellars near the railroad station, which I might add are ice cold. Pacalet describes 2014 as a "moderately difficult vintage in that I again had hail in some of my vineyards. At least I didn't have any issues with the Suzukii flies except for one parcel because my neighbor chose to do a green harvest and then leave the discarded fruit in the vineyard! What a mess! There really wasn't much disease pressure so other than that one parcel there wasn't any significant sorting required. I used a high percentage of whole clusters in the vinifications as the fruit was clean and ripe so I didn't see any reason not to do so. As to the wines I would describe them as classic Burgundies that remind me of say 2002 or 2010 though I believe that the 2014s have more flesh than the 2010s. In any case what I like best about them is how clearly each terroir expresses itself. You really can't mistake one wine for another." Pacalet explained that the Ruchottes had just been racked and was not in a condition to be evaluated. He further noted that the wines will be bottled without fining or filtration and it's interesting to note that Pacalet is one of the few remaining domaines that still do the mise (bottling) by hand.