2017 Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (750ml)

2017 Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (750ml)

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Pierre Boisson is also an old, school-age friend with Raphael Coche, son of Jean-François Coche of Domaine Coche-Dury, and the two often discuss winemaking and viticultural philosophies.

The wines of Domaine Boisson-Vadot have always been excellent, with a classic, soil-driven and racy style not encumbered by excessive new oak or battonage. Like so many of the top domaines in Burgundy, there are no secrets to the success of the Boisson-Vadot wines. Rather, the tried and true formula of a high percentage of old vines, careful vineyard husbandry each year to nurture the greatest potential of each vintage, and patient, careful winemaking in the cellars allows the unique, underlying terroirs of each vineyard to take the spotlight in the finished wines. The wines are aged in a very modest amount of new oak- no more than twenty-five to thirty percent for the top cuvées, and less for the village wines and the Bourgogne Blanc bottlings. The wines are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and go to barrel with little or no settling of the lees, after which they receive a relatively long elevage of 19-22 months, which the Boissons feel helps give the wines additional depth and refinement. Before bottling, wines receive a light fining but no filtration.

The wines of Boisson-Vadot, Pierre Boisson and Anne Boisson are all produced collaboratively at the family's cellars in Meursault. The hierarchy starts with the domaine’s excellent Bourgogne Blanc, from vines in the village of Meursault, which could easily be mistaken for a Meursault with its broad texture and hints of lime, nuts and honey. Pierre Boisson makes a village Meursault from his grandmother’s vineyards (30-50 year old vines in the lieu-dits of Criots and Perchots) that is a textbook example of the appellation, with the hazelnut-tinged fruit of the village coupled to lovely minerality and notes of lime zest. The domaine also makes three distinct village wine bottlings, from three of the best lieux dits in Meursault: Sous la Velle (under Anne Boisson); Grands Charrons (planted in 1988) and Chevalières (planted in 1982). The Grands Charrons bottling is the exhuberant of the three ("the most Meursault-y" says Bernard). The Sous la Velle is broad yet refined, perhaps a slightly toned down version of the Grand Charrons. Lastly, the Chevalières is racier and more mineral in profile, with a tighter fruit component in its youth. All the wines are excellent and quite age-worthy, and behave much more like top premier crus than they do village wines.