2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière (750ml)15
91 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
There is just enough post-bottling SO2 to interfere slightly with the slightly exotic white orchard fruit aromas that are trimmed in a subtle dollop of wood. There is fine richness and volume to the caressing medium weight flavors that also possess a beguiling texture before culminating in a focused, complex and attractively persistent finish. This is sufficiently forward that it should be approachable after only 3 to 4 years if desired.
Pierre-Yves Colin described the 2018 growing season as "one where we were basically nervous from the beginning because we started so early. This of course means that the risk of a late spring frost is always present, such as what occurred in 2016 and narrowly missed another in 2017. We had a scare in 2018 in late April as well but thankfully it too was avoided. After that the season was relatively tranquil even though it was definitely hot and dry. We chose to pick from the 27th of August to the 6th of September. The fruit was both clean and ripe and I was surprised by the level of juice we obtained as I didn't expect it to be quite so generous. The pressing was the key challenge with the chardonnay as it was a fine line to walk between pressing hard enough to obtain sufficient dry extract to give the wines body and richness but not so hard as to extract too much potassium that lowers the acid levels. In the end I decided that pressing gently but over a 3 to 4-hour press cycle was the best strategy. Potential alcohols were very good but not really high as our vineyards in the Côte came in between 12.5 and 13.4% while those in the Hautes Côte were in the 12 to 12.5% range. As to the wines, they're rich but vibrant with good balance and dry extract levels. Stylistically, they make me think of my 2011s." For those wines already in bottle, Colin noted that they were put there in December 2019 while the rest will be bottled between April and July 2020. He is continuing to cap each bottle with wax as an aid in fighting potential premature oxidation issues. (6/2020)