2017 Contrade di Taurasi–Cantine Lonardo Grecomusc' (750ml)15 2 0 0
Contrade di Taurasi is owned by Sandro Lonardo, a schoolteacher, and his wife Enza. They make Irpinia Aglianico, Taurasi, and small amounts of a white wine made from Grecomusc’, an indigenous white variety. Their vineyards are all in the official Taurasi zone and all of southern exposure and at about 1,300 feet above sea level. This small, family-run operation produces traditional wines in very small quantities.
Sandro Lonardo makes a tiny amount of a white wine they call Grecomusc' named after the grape the locals also call Grecomusc' (also known as Roviello Bianco). The variety is indigenous to the town of Taurasi and the villages around. Lonardo is the only producer marketing the wine. He buys the fruit from various small farmers who have a few rows each, the vines ranging from 70 to over 100 years old, all ungrafted. Total production of wine made from this variety is just over 200 cases a year.
"Bright golden-yellow; this is much deeper in color than the 2016, perhaps a reflection of the hotter, drier 2017 vintage. Earthy nuances greet the nose and complement aromas of nectarine, jasmine and Asian pear. Then more Asian pear, yellow apple and ginger, complicated by a hint of grapefruit and repeating earth notes. Closes long and quite tactile, even youthfully chewy, with hints of chamomile and dried ginger. I find this 2017 to be made in a much riper style than usual, but it’s nowhere near being flat or over the top. Give it another year in bottle and it might develop further complexity; it seems to be in a slightly brooding stage right now." 90+ points - Ian D'Agata (Vinous, September 2019)