2017 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos (750ml)

91 points Vinous

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos is a little more vivacious and energetic than the "Champ", hints of orange zest infusing the open-knit red berry fruit, touches of tobacco emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This feels fleshy though not deep, after all, this is not a Premier Cru. However, it is very poised with a dash of Shezhuan pepper imparting a tingling sensation on the aftertaste. Very fine. (Drink between 2021-2030) NM (1/2020)

90 points Wine Advocate

Duroché's 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos is showing well from bottle, bursting from the glass with aromas of wild berries, dried flowers, smoked meats and cedar. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, with fine texture and depth at the core while remaining charming and open-knit.

As I wrote last year, the quietly confident Pierre Duroché—who once represented France in rock climbing—took over this eight-hectare Domaine in 2005. He knows what he wants to achieve and is well on the way to achieving it. Blessed with an enviable patrimony of vineyard holdings and plenty of old vines too, his hand-harvested grapes see gentle macerations and élevage with decidedly modest percentages of new wood. Stems, thoughtfully employed, are increasingly part of the equation. The ensuing wines are beautifully fragrant, with filigree tannins, vibrant fruit tones and sneaky persistence. Duroché harvested early in 2018 and has produced a lovely range of fragrant, elegant and unusually vibrant wines that I can't wait to taste again from bottle. His 2017s, which I also revisited, are showing beautifully, capturing all the inherent charm of the vintage. In short, Domaine Duroché continues its ascent, and readers who haven't yet taken notice should do so before it's too late.WK (1/2020)